IMG_0150 IMG_0898The Tuscany of Florence,Sienna and San Gimignano is as well-known as it trodden. But go west,to the coast,and you’ll find a world miles removed from those rolling, olive-tree-clad hills. Here we settle into tiny restaurants that hug the shore like limpets,serving up fresh fish and cool carafes of local wine. This is pure,undiluted luxury,and a place where everyday irks and worriers melt into the purple dusk

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